Many owners come to me with the same issue- help teach my dog to walk nicely on the leash. Walking your dog is good for your dog and good for you. Walking keeps both of you healthy, entertained, and strong. However, when leash walking is unpleasant, our walks become battles, or worse, do not happen at all.

There are many devices available on the market to deter pulling. For most dogs I recommend using a standard buckle collar. If your dog is a serious puller, I will recommend a front clip harness. This harness requires no adjustment time (as head halters often do) and reduces the leverage needed to pull. The dogs can no longer use their body weight to drag you down the street. If your dog can “Houdini” out of collars or harnesses, you can try a limited slip or “martingale” style collar. It fits looser than a standard collar, but will tighten just enough if they attempt to back out that it will get caught behind their ears. These are often used by owners of Greyhounds, Shepherds, or any dog whose neck is as wide as their head.

Consistency, a few tasty treats, and a little patience are the most important tools needed. If your dog has ever pulled you and got to go where it wanted to go, your dog learned that pulling works. Dogs also have an opposition reflex; if you pull on your dog, your dog will automatically pull back. We must retrain your dog to pay attention to you, and you will both be rewarded with a pleasant walk.

Some dogs start getting a little nutty as soon as they see the leash. As you reach for the leash, ask your dog to sit. If your dog refuses (ask only once!) put down the leash, and walk away. Wait five seconds, come back to your dog, and ask for a sit again. If your dog complies, attach the leash. If not, repeat walking away. You are teaching your dog silly behavior gets them nowhere, but calmly following your cue gets them what they want.

Step out of your house. Chances are your dog is already starting to pull! There are two techniques you will practice. The first technique is called “being a tree.” If your dog pulls, do not move. Say your dog’s name to get his/ her attention. If you get any looseness in the leash, say “good dog!”, and try to start walking again. If your dog pulls again, stop moving again, repeating the technique. Your dog will learn the only way he or she will get anywhere is when there is looseness in the leash.

The second technique is changing directions. In this technique, if your dog starts forging ahead, say your dog’s name, turn in the opposite direction, and walk in that direction. There will be slight tension in the leash, but your dog will turn around and come back to you. As you dog catches up to you, say “good dog!” and attempt to continue walking. In both techniques, you are only saying your dog’s name and “good dog.” We want to catch your dog doing well. Adding in extra commands (e.g. “let’s go, let’s walk”) will tell your dog to only walk politely when they hear those words.

I mentioned bringing a few treats. We do not want your dog reliant on treats, but if you say your dog’s name and he or she gives you eye contact and has a loose leash, reward that behavior!

I do not recommend correction- based devices such as choke chains or prong collars.  While some dogs will respond to these devices, some will ignore them, and keep yanking on you. More sensitive dogs may develop a correlation between painful corrections to their neck with what they see. (When your dog tried to say hello to that other dog, they got a horrible pinch to their neck thus associating other dogs with making bad things happen.) Many leash aggressive dogs I have worked with had training histories involving these collars.

I hope utilizing these techniques will help you and your dog enjoy some much deserved quality time together.

Happy walking!